Rainy season in Soyo

It has been a while since my last post.The internet access for the Kimbumba residents has been so slow that we have been unable to reach websites or access email accounts with our laptops. Thank goodness for smartphones and tablets! Some days, although slow, the smartphones/tablets have allowed Kimbumba residents to keep up with some of our email communication.

We are now experiencing the Soyo rainy season. I am told that 2 years ago the rainy season made such an impact to this area that the little produce normally found in the markets was nonexistent from December through February. Last year, Soyo experienced a drought. I feel certain, after experiencing recent rain storms we will not have drought conditions this year. Heavy rains cause streets to flood and standing water becomes the norm. The good news (or bad news depending on your point of view) is that our neighborhood is sprayed with insecticide weekly to help kill mosquitoes and hopefully reduce the likelihood of diseases, such as malaria that are prevalent in Angola. I happened to catch the "sprayers" the other day and took their picture as I was safely tucked away inside our home. The trick is not to get caught walking in the neighborhood when the "sprayers" come around. The expats schedule activities around "sprayer" time so as to avoid getting "caught".

Insecticide truck...sprayers look like something out of a science fiction film (with masks and body suits)

Run for cover...or be sprayed!

We are encouraged to fly to Luanda, the capital of Angola, for food shopping once a month. Due the persistent rain we have been experiencing, food availability in Soyo will be even more of a concern during upcoming summer months. Luanda is approximately a one hour flight away (via a 16 seat prop plane), but the shopping trip takes 3 days to complete due to heavy Luanda traffic and limited flights to Luanda. Three of us decided to make the journey last week. We flew out later than usual on Wednesday afternoon due to a massive thunderstorm, but arrived safely in Luanda that evening. The following morning, we were met by our assigned security guard, Mateus, and our driver, Flavio.

Mateus, Mary Anne, Flavio and Mo

Mateus, Ana, Flavio and Mo

In the US, going to 3 grocery stores might take a half day at most. In Luanda, due to congested travel routes, it takes the whole day. I was mindful of what friends told me before going...your eyes will be bigger than your cooler or trunk space. I was amazed by well stocked shelves and the availability of some items that I had not seen since leaving the states in September. At first, I wanted to buy everything in sight, but slowly settled into purchasing only what was absolutely necessary. We finished our shopping around 5:30 PM that evening and settled into our hotel to organize our groceries. We had to sort through our produce, place items into plastic ziplocks after wrapping them first in paper towels, and strategically place them in coolers. Yes, quite a routine, but this would ensure that our items would have a fighting chance of reaching Soyo. Success! Everything fit into our coolers and trunk.

The next morning, we took off for the Luanda airport. There were yet a few glitches ahead of us, unfortunately. I currently do not have possession of my passport. It was turned in to immigration in September for obtaining a dependent visa and as everyone here, I've had to patiently await its return. I had to present a copy of a receipt that is proof that my passport is currently held up in the Angolan immigration process. The receipt allowed me to leave Soyo and enter Luanda, but unfortunately, when I went to leave, it was not good enough. After what seemed like hours (but really only a half hour), I was allowed to clear immigration. What a relief! However, the adventure was not over. After a bit of a delay, we boarded the small plane and took off for Soyo. As we approached Soyo, the pilot informed us that due to a very ominous storm, there was zero visibility at the Soyo airport and we would have to return to Luanda. Most passengers were concerned about the weather conditions. I was more concerned about having to go back to Luanda and clear immigration again! As one expat passenger stated who understood my dilemma, it's like the song says..."Hotel California...You can check out anytime, but you can never leave". Nothing like a sense of humor to get you through the stress. Another concern was the fact that the groceries in the coolers were on borrowed time and the frozen water bottles brought from Soyo for the coolers were now just cold water. The items we had purchased and so carefully packed in Luanda would have to wait yet more time before getting to a refrigerator. In the end, it turns out that I did not have to go through immigration, as they placed us in a waiting lounge to await better weather conditions. Whew! Luckily, the weather improved in Soyo and a few hours later we were once again airborne. We arrived safely in Soyo a few hours late, but luckily our cooler items survived! Pretty interesting that some folks on the tiny plane were concerned about the rough weather...all I worried about was having to face the bureaucracy of immigration agents in Luanda if we had not been able to fly back to Soyo!  :-)

Time to de-stress...we took a trip to the beach last Sunday afternoon. Soyo is located at the mouth of the Congo river where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. Our driver, Beta, drove us to one of the beaches that is about a 20 minute drive from Kimbumba. This particular beach included a reminder of the civil war in Angola. As you can see from the picture below, there is a leftover remnant of the war, right smack in the middle of the beautiful sand and water. Quite a backdrop for an interesting picture! Beta and I posed in front of the sunken tank. Later, Beta told us that that particular area had been a big target during the war.

Remnant of civil war

Beta and Ana

Majestic baobob tree on the way to the beach

Today is Thanksgiving Day... Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! Here in Soyo, it is a normal working day for expats. I'll try to cook a "special" dinner tonight, but the usual turkey and fixings are definitely not a possibility. Not to worry, however, it is not the meal that makes Thanksgiving Day so special. It is a day for giving thanks for all of our blessings. I can truly say that our family has been blessed with many wonderful experiences this past year. Both of our kids are flying solo and have had some wonderful life experiences this year and continue to do so as I am writing this blog. Although our family cannot be together for this Thanksgiving Day, we hope to be reunited for Christmas. As I write, I am reminded of how blessed we are to have such mature and well-adjusted young adults as our children. Happy Thanksgiving, kids, Mom and Dad are very proud of you! To our family and friends...May you enjoy your wonderful Thanksgiving Day with loved ones. Just to let you know, you are at the top of our list of many blessings we are thankful for today and everyday!

"Obrigada" and "boa noite"

This past week has been filled with afternoon visits to friends' houses, bidding farewell to spouses that are leaving for the next couple of months. Life here consists of getting used to the surroundings, culture and activities and making new friends but also of planning for your next trip abroad or back home, getting ready for your next assignment, or saying goodbye to friends who are leaving. Some expats are approaching the end of their 3-4 year assignment and are awaiting new assignment specifics so that they can get belongings packed and moved to their new homes. Others of us have just arrived and are eager to listen to stories about how others have made a life here and how this experience has changed them. One thing is for sure, there is no doubt that the activities that we seek out while here will help to enrich and change our lives.

Playtime near Mpinda church - Girls will be girls!

The road to Mpinda church

Speaking of seeking out activities, we have attended 2 more Soyo Bhoys soccer activities in the last couple of weeks. Even our drivers enjoy the games. Instead of dropping us off, they stay and watch the boys play. In the last couple of weeks, we attended a season game where the team won 2-0 and a practice game where the boys won 5-0.  The coach was thrilled that we had come again to cheer for the team. He and the team offered to pose for a team picture in front of their flag. We attended the games with another couple and had coordinated bringing the team some refreshments which were very welcome at halftime. At the end of the practice game, we brought out cupcakes with green and white (Celtics) frosting and lollipops. As I observed them, I realized that even though we brought 24 cupcakes and drinks for a team of 11 players, when you counted up the number of children that gathered, it was certainly not enough for everyone. Yet, in an orderly fashion, the coach asked the team members to sit on the makeshift benches as he handed out the treats. Once he finished with the players, he gave out the extras to some of the spectators. Again, this was done in an orderly fashion. Many bystanders got lollipops and those that did not, were still smiling. We took lots of pictures and as we were leaving, we smiled and responded to many of the boys who were saying “obrigado” and “bon noite” (“thank you” and “good night”) to us, some had a lollipop or cupcake in hand, some did not.  Was this another life lesson? For me it was.

Coach, Mr. Pep, and Soyo Bhoys team - undefeated so far!!

Soccer "dads", Nyles and Jeff and Soyo Bhoys coaches, Mr. Pep and his assistant

Another activity we’ve enjoyed since living in Kimbumba, is eating some of the most delicious pizza ever! Even though ingredients are scarce and the dough is made with ingredients purchased abroad, one expat couple has mastered the art of pizza making. They have designed and built (with the help of their drivers) an outdoor adobe pizza oven to rival all pizza ovens! It takes wood or charcoal (which here is very rustic and hard to light) and, according to a very precise heat gauge gun that they have purchased for the purpose of monitoring “pizza cooking readiness”, it generates heat over 600 degrees F. The pizza only takes 2-4 minutes to bake with this heat and the finished product is amazing! So here we are… in a 3^rd world country, in a small town next to the Congo River, and we’ve experienced the best pizza of our lives due to expat ingenuity.

 

Outdoor pizza oven and "master" pizza maker, Pat

Expats help place toppings on pizzas (Jeff, Pat and Bryan)

Our housekeeper, Orlanda, called out to me from the back porch last week and when I looked out to where she was calling, she showed me the little bird that she had found on the tiled pathway by the side of the house. She thought he was too small to fly, but I think he had flown into one of our windows and was a bit shaken up. Once I took some pictures of him, we left him alone as he seemed to be gaining strength. We wondered if his mother would come for him or if he would shake himself off and fly away. Within a few minutes, he was on his way, flying again with his friends. As I saw him take off, I thought that we could relate to his experience…sometimes we've had set backs here like the small bird…no eggs, bad eggs…no internet, slow internet…no power, no water…but we shrug it off, and keep on going with the encouragement of our expat friends (and notes from friends and family back home).

Birds sometimes have setbacks too!

Participating in new activities and learning new skills seem to help with “life in Soyo”.  I have added to my portfolio of culinary skills. OK, so maybe you are wondering how big it was before? In the short time I have been in Soyo, I have mastered the art of yogurt making “from scratch” using powdered milk. I have also made ricotta cheese from powdered milk. Now, I know that some of you are wondering, “Why on earth anyone would want to do this????” It comes down to necessity. When you can find yogurt in the small markets, you aren’t sure whether the yogurt has been stored in coolers that have suffered multiple power failures or not. Therefore, you are not sure if the yogurt is spoiled or not. By the way, yogurt made from scratch is actually much tastier than any I’ve ever purchased! It is also very easy to make, it just takes time…and I seem to have plenty of that these days. The ricotta is also much creamier and delicious than any that I have ever purchased. Here in Soyo, there is no ricotta to be purchased, therefore, you must make your own. By the way, I was also able to make the Soyo Bhoys' chocolate cupcakes with an eggless and butterless recipe. I certainly did not know that was possible before living here. Soyo life can lead to developing skills that you never even thought that you needed! Actually, it is quite a confidence booster when you are able to overcome obstacles and realize that some perceived barriers are just that, "perceived".

"Eggless" and "butterless" cupcakes!

The windchimes are up! We finally decided to take one set of windchimes out of the box and hang them up on the back porch. We hung them up where they are visible from the kitchen sink window. Quite a nice addition to the house! Hopefully, our many bird "friends" won’t think it is too much competition and shy away. 

In closing this posting, I am reminded of the Angolan boys and what they taught me on the soccer field sidelines this week. They were appreciative of the attention and goodies we brought for them, so too am I very appreciative of the experiences I’ve had these past few weeks, “obrigada” and “boa noite”.