Definition of hardship? Ask the turtles!

At first I wondered if being a blogger would be difficult since I would need many different topics to write about to keep blog followers interested. I'm happy to report that I have not had to worry about the lack of experiences or topics. Every week, events occur that keep life in Soyo interesting!

When we were about to arrive in Soyo, we were told that our house had been "landscaped". It was absolutely true. Our Kimbumba house was beautifully landscaped. Here that means that all of the weeds have been eliminated and the beautiful red soil forms a flawless landscape. After having lived in a large house for many years in the US with a large yard and lots of grass, it was a welcome change. We could shed our worries about sprinkler systems, moles, or the yearly fungus that attacks lawns, especially in the deep south.

Yard before the "facelift"

Now for the reality check. If you remember a previous blog, you know that we are now in the Soyo rainy season and approaching summer time. Rain brings fast growing weeds. I had managed to keep up with some of them (by hand) off and on during the first month. However, during the rainy season, it was clear that my method was like giving the yard a haircut one hair at a time...lots of work in the hot Soyo sun, but not very productive. One of the drivers in the neighborhood saw me last week as I was attacking the front yard a few blades at a time. He immediately came over to explain that a hoe and rake were the tools needed (our US shipment has not arrived yet) and proceeded to contact gardeners to get quotes for me. I knew that I would eventually have to give up my plight, but my driver friend accelerated the process. He also showed me how in 15 minutes, his strength and his tools, the a small portion of the front yard looked flawless once more, The next day, the gardeners took care of the entire yard for a VERY reasonable price. Things here in Soyo are very expensive, but gardeners are reasonable...great landscaping once again. The BIG surprise came the following morning at 6:30AM, when my husband and I walked out the front door, he was going to work, I was going for my early morning walk. To our amazement, there were several tropical plants planted in the front and side yards. Of course, the secret angel was nearby with a big smile. Our driver friend had come very early (must have been REALLY early) to plant these to surprise us. What a wonderful treat!

Yard after the "facelift"

Somehow we cannot get it right on the timing for mass at Mpinda church. Of course, our first mass was the special 3 hour+ mass and we arrived early for that celebration. Ever since, we have managed to get to Mpinda a bit late for the masses even though we've asked for starting times and have adjusted our arrival times accordingly. I suppose it's an example of the TIA (This is Africa) factor we have been told about. Last Sunday we arrived at 9AM thinking we would be VERY early for 9:30 AM mass only to arrive at the end of mass (LOL). We have finally decided that the start of mass is very dependent on the end of the previous mass (which may be an hour long or 2-3 hours long) and therefore is always a moving target. Nevertheless, we stayed for the priest's final words and for the wonderful singing and swaying of the choir. Although this is not the first time we have heard the choir, we are always so moved by the enthusiasm and wonderful feeling that they generate among all of us around them. I am attaching a new video of their procession out of Mpinda church for your enjoyment and one of the "ride" on the road to Mpinda.

Road to Mpinda

  

Mpinda choir

A World Aids Awareness Day event for Soyo was hosted by the local LNG plant. It took place at a local school courtyard. Expat spouses and plant employees assisted by forming a reception line to hand out educational material, tee shirts, etc. The mayor and the king of Soyo were some of the VIPs in attendance. I was happy to be able to help out with the reception line and to observe the activities that followed. Activities included cultural dances and a skit in which actors, portraying local teens, provided guidance on the causes of aids and the myths associated with people that have aids. We are hopeful that this event will have a positive impact and ultimately help the people of Soyo.

Reception line

Reception line - Mo handing out literature

The following week was a challenge for us as multiple power failures, lasting several hours, occurred. Power failures cause the water supply to be shut off as well because the water pumps for Kimbumba depend on electricity. As tough as that sounds, we have learned that it could always be worse...and we must learn to exercise patience. Also, we've learned not to say..."what else could happen?" That particular week...it did! A main water pipe broke in front of our house around 4PM Tuesday and the workers worked until dark, then left for the day. The next day, they arrived once they had secured the parts they needed in the town of Soyo, around 10AM. Luckily they were able to fix the pipe by early afternoon.  I hosted the Mah Jong get together that afternoon...yes, I was the hostess that week. I also managed to have dinner on the table that evening despite the setbacks. Just one more test of our resiliency and I think we managed to pass the test. A 32 year career in business with a lot of "character building" experiences and opportunities may have prepared me for life in Soyo after all!  :-)

Now...on to the extraordinary experience that came after the challenges of the week before! I received a call from the environmental advisor, Kim, early this morning to alert me that there was a turtle hatching this morning. The Olive Ridley sea turtles are prevalent in the bay near the mouth of the Congo River and the Atlantic Ocean. The females lay their eggs in many places along the beach and there is an environmental project to assist the turtles. Sometimes the nests are moved to "safer" places behind green nets. There are crews round the clock keeping close watch on the identified nests and looking for new ones. Once hatching begins, they contact volunteers to assist the turtles reach the water. It has been proven that their survival rate is much greater with this assistance. Without help, baby turtles instinctively waddle toward the light which is usually away from the water. The turtles need to be released on the beach near the water (not in the water) as this helps the female turtles to remember their "first walk" on the sandy beach. When the females mature, they will instinctively come back to the beach when it is time for them to lay their eggs. Amazing! I was thrilled to be able to take part in this project and have my name on the list for future releases. Kim says that this year, the nests have been more prevalent than ever and the number of turtles hatching is also a record number. The timing for the hatching is from November through February/March time-frame. I have videos and pictures to share below. The last picture is of one turtle that was not very strong. He did not get released today. Kim will try to release him later in hopes that he will gain strength in the hours to come. The plight of the baby turtles only begins with their entry into the water. Once in the water, they face many hardships. Not only must they be strong enough to survive in the water, they must face many predators (fish, crabs, birds, etc.) and man-made trash that has polluted the water and could strangle them. OK, so maybe surviving Kimbumba power failures and water outages is minor compared to what lies ahead for these tiny beautiful creatures! I could almost "hear" the turtles saying..."You think you've got problems lady?". Quite amazing that God gave us the call, through Kim, to help the turtles this week on the heels of the challenges we faced last week. Coincidence?? I think not!

Baby turtles hatched today

Just a little help goes a long way!

This is how you look when you jump out of bed early in the morning to help the babies!

They are on their way!

One of the "babies" seems too weak to be released today...maybe tomorrow.

Environmental advisor, Kim, releasing turtles...what a wonderful experience!

I depart for Luanda on another grocery shopping trip tomorrow. I'm VERY happy to report that I will travel with my passport and visa this time, as it finally arrived a week ago. Hopefully, this trip won't be as challenging when it comes to the immigration process. Also, the Celtic Soyo Bohys team finished the football season undefeated last Sunday and received a trophy. I have many pictures of them to share with you. I will include these in my next blog posting. Tchau for now!

  

Rainy season in Soyo

It has been a while since my last post.The internet access for the Kimbumba residents has been so slow that we have been unable to reach websites or access email accounts with our laptops. Thank goodness for smartphones and tablets! Some days, although slow, the smartphones/tablets have allowed Kimbumba residents to keep up with some of our email communication.

We are now experiencing the Soyo rainy season. I am told that 2 years ago the rainy season made such an impact to this area that the little produce normally found in the markets was nonexistent from December through February. Last year, Soyo experienced a drought. I feel certain, after experiencing recent rain storms we will not have drought conditions this year. Heavy rains cause streets to flood and standing water becomes the norm. The good news (or bad news depending on your point of view) is that our neighborhood is sprayed with insecticide weekly to help kill mosquitoes and hopefully reduce the likelihood of diseases, such as malaria that are prevalent in Angola. I happened to catch the "sprayers" the other day and took their picture as I was safely tucked away inside our home. The trick is not to get caught walking in the neighborhood when the "sprayers" come around. The expats schedule activities around "sprayer" time so as to avoid getting "caught".

Insecticide truck...sprayers look like something out of a science fiction film (with masks and body suits)

Run for cover...or be sprayed!

We are encouraged to fly to Luanda, the capital of Angola, for food shopping once a month. Due the persistent rain we have been experiencing, food availability in Soyo will be even more of a concern during upcoming summer months. Luanda is approximately a one hour flight away (via a 16 seat prop plane), but the shopping trip takes 3 days to complete due to heavy Luanda traffic and limited flights to Luanda. Three of us decided to make the journey last week. We flew out later than usual on Wednesday afternoon due to a massive thunderstorm, but arrived safely in Luanda that evening. The following morning, we were met by our assigned security guard, Mateus, and our driver, Flavio.

Mateus, Mary Anne, Flavio and Mo

Mateus, Ana, Flavio and Mo

In the US, going to 3 grocery stores might take a half day at most. In Luanda, due to congested travel routes, it takes the whole day. I was mindful of what friends told me before going...your eyes will be bigger than your cooler or trunk space. I was amazed by well stocked shelves and the availability of some items that I had not seen since leaving the states in September. At first, I wanted to buy everything in sight, but slowly settled into purchasing only what was absolutely necessary. We finished our shopping around 5:30 PM that evening and settled into our hotel to organize our groceries. We had to sort through our produce, place items into plastic ziplocks after wrapping them first in paper towels, and strategically place them in coolers. Yes, quite a routine, but this would ensure that our items would have a fighting chance of reaching Soyo. Success! Everything fit into our coolers and trunk.

The next morning, we took off for the Luanda airport. There were yet a few glitches ahead of us, unfortunately. I currently do not have possession of my passport. It was turned in to immigration in September for obtaining a dependent visa and as everyone here, I've had to patiently await its return. I had to present a copy of a receipt that is proof that my passport is currently held up in the Angolan immigration process. The receipt allowed me to leave Soyo and enter Luanda, but unfortunately, when I went to leave, it was not good enough. After what seemed like hours (but really only a half hour), I was allowed to clear immigration. What a relief! However, the adventure was not over. After a bit of a delay, we boarded the small plane and took off for Soyo. As we approached Soyo, the pilot informed us that due to a very ominous storm, there was zero visibility at the Soyo airport and we would have to return to Luanda. Most passengers were concerned about the weather conditions. I was more concerned about having to go back to Luanda and clear immigration again! As one expat passenger stated who understood my dilemma, it's like the song says..."Hotel California...You can check out anytime, but you can never leave". Nothing like a sense of humor to get you through the stress. Another concern was the fact that the groceries in the coolers were on borrowed time and the frozen water bottles brought from Soyo for the coolers were now just cold water. The items we had purchased and so carefully packed in Luanda would have to wait yet more time before getting to a refrigerator. In the end, it turns out that I did not have to go through immigration, as they placed us in a waiting lounge to await better weather conditions. Whew! Luckily, the weather improved in Soyo and a few hours later we were once again airborne. We arrived safely in Soyo a few hours late, but luckily our cooler items survived! Pretty interesting that some folks on the tiny plane were concerned about the rough weather...all I worried about was having to face the bureaucracy of immigration agents in Luanda if we had not been able to fly back to Soyo!  :-)

Time to de-stress...we took a trip to the beach last Sunday afternoon. Soyo is located at the mouth of the Congo river where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. Our driver, Beta, drove us to one of the beaches that is about a 20 minute drive from Kimbumba. This particular beach included a reminder of the civil war in Angola. As you can see from the picture below, there is a leftover remnant of the war, right smack in the middle of the beautiful sand and water. Quite a backdrop for an interesting picture! Beta and I posed in front of the sunken tank. Later, Beta told us that that particular area had been a big target during the war.

Remnant of civil war

Beta and Ana

Majestic baobob tree on the way to the beach

Today is Thanksgiving Day... Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! Here in Soyo, it is a normal working day for expats. I'll try to cook a "special" dinner tonight, but the usual turkey and fixings are definitely not a possibility. Not to worry, however, it is not the meal that makes Thanksgiving Day so special. It is a day for giving thanks for all of our blessings. I can truly say that our family has been blessed with many wonderful experiences this past year. Both of our kids are flying solo and have had some wonderful life experiences this year and continue to do so as I am writing this blog. Although our family cannot be together for this Thanksgiving Day, we hope to be reunited for Christmas. As I write, I am reminded of how blessed we are to have such mature and well-adjusted young adults as our children. Happy Thanksgiving, kids, Mom and Dad are very proud of you! To our family and friends...May you enjoy your wonderful Thanksgiving Day with loved ones. Just to let you know, you are at the top of our list of many blessings we are thankful for today and everyday!

"Obrigada" and "boa noite"

This past week has been filled with afternoon visits to friends' houses, bidding farewell to spouses that are leaving for the next couple of months. Life here consists of getting used to the surroundings, culture and activities and making new friends but also of planning for your next trip abroad or back home, getting ready for your next assignment, or saying goodbye to friends who are leaving. Some expats are approaching the end of their 3-4 year assignment and are awaiting new assignment specifics so that they can get belongings packed and moved to their new homes. Others of us have just arrived and are eager to listen to stories about how others have made a life here and how this experience has changed them. One thing is for sure, there is no doubt that the activities that we seek out while here will help to enrich and change our lives.

Playtime near Mpinda church - Girls will be girls!

The road to Mpinda church

Speaking of seeking out activities, we have attended 2 more Soyo Bhoys soccer activities in the last couple of weeks. Even our drivers enjoy the games. Instead of dropping us off, they stay and watch the boys play. In the last couple of weeks, we attended a season game where the team won 2-0 and a practice game where the boys won 5-0.  The coach was thrilled that we had come again to cheer for the team. He and the team offered to pose for a team picture in front of their flag. We attended the games with another couple and had coordinated bringing the team some refreshments which were very welcome at halftime. At the end of the practice game, we brought out cupcakes with green and white (Celtics) frosting and lollipops. As I observed them, I realized that even though we brought 24 cupcakes and drinks for a team of 11 players, when you counted up the number of children that gathered, it was certainly not enough for everyone. Yet, in an orderly fashion, the coach asked the team members to sit on the makeshift benches as he handed out the treats. Once he finished with the players, he gave out the extras to some of the spectators. Again, this was done in an orderly fashion. Many bystanders got lollipops and those that did not, were still smiling. We took lots of pictures and as we were leaving, we smiled and responded to many of the boys who were saying “obrigado” and “bon noite” (“thank you” and “good night”) to us, some had a lollipop or cupcake in hand, some did not.  Was this another life lesson? For me it was.

Coach, Mr. Pep, and Soyo Bhoys team - undefeated so far!!

Soccer "dads", Nyles and Jeff and Soyo Bhoys coaches, Mr. Pep and his assistant

Another activity we’ve enjoyed since living in Kimbumba, is eating some of the most delicious pizza ever! Even though ingredients are scarce and the dough is made with ingredients purchased abroad, one expat couple has mastered the art of pizza making. They have designed and built (with the help of their drivers) an outdoor adobe pizza oven to rival all pizza ovens! It takes wood or charcoal (which here is very rustic and hard to light) and, according to a very precise heat gauge gun that they have purchased for the purpose of monitoring “pizza cooking readiness”, it generates heat over 600 degrees F. The pizza only takes 2-4 minutes to bake with this heat and the finished product is amazing! So here we are… in a 3^rd world country, in a small town next to the Congo River, and we’ve experienced the best pizza of our lives due to expat ingenuity.

 

Outdoor pizza oven and "master" pizza maker, Pat

Expats help place toppings on pizzas (Jeff, Pat and Bryan)

Our housekeeper, Orlanda, called out to me from the back porch last week and when I looked out to where she was calling, she showed me the little bird that she had found on the tiled pathway by the side of the house. She thought he was too small to fly, but I think he had flown into one of our windows and was a bit shaken up. Once I took some pictures of him, we left him alone as he seemed to be gaining strength. We wondered if his mother would come for him or if he would shake himself off and fly away. Within a few minutes, he was on his way, flying again with his friends. As I saw him take off, I thought that we could relate to his experience…sometimes we've had set backs here like the small bird…no eggs, bad eggs…no internet, slow internet…no power, no water…but we shrug it off, and keep on going with the encouragement of our expat friends (and notes from friends and family back home).

Birds sometimes have setbacks too!

Participating in new activities and learning new skills seem to help with “life in Soyo”.  I have added to my portfolio of culinary skills. OK, so maybe you are wondering how big it was before? In the short time I have been in Soyo, I have mastered the art of yogurt making “from scratch” using powdered milk. I have also made ricotta cheese from powdered milk. Now, I know that some of you are wondering, “Why on earth anyone would want to do this????” It comes down to necessity. When you can find yogurt in the small markets, you aren’t sure whether the yogurt has been stored in coolers that have suffered multiple power failures or not. Therefore, you are not sure if the yogurt is spoiled or not. By the way, yogurt made from scratch is actually much tastier than any I’ve ever purchased! It is also very easy to make, it just takes time…and I seem to have plenty of that these days. The ricotta is also much creamier and delicious than any that I have ever purchased. Here in Soyo, there is no ricotta to be purchased, therefore, you must make your own. By the way, I was also able to make the Soyo Bhoys' chocolate cupcakes with an eggless and butterless recipe. I certainly did not know that was possible before living here. Soyo life can lead to developing skills that you never even thought that you needed! Actually, it is quite a confidence booster when you are able to overcome obstacles and realize that some perceived barriers are just that, "perceived".

"Eggless" and "butterless" cupcakes!

The windchimes are up! We finally decided to take one set of windchimes out of the box and hang them up on the back porch. We hung them up where they are visible from the kitchen sink window. Quite a nice addition to the house! Hopefully, our many bird "friends" won’t think it is too much competition and shy away. 

In closing this posting, I am reminded of the Angolan boys and what they taught me on the soccer field sidelines this week. They were appreciative of the attention and goodies we brought for them, so too am I very appreciative of the experiences I’ve had these past few weeks, “obrigada” and “boa noite”.

Four weeks and still smiling!

We arrived in Soyo four weeks ago. We are unpacked and now settling into our daily routines. Although my husband's work schedule has been demanding (7 days a week), we have tried to make the most of our short time here. We are meeting and socializing with other expats, reaching out to participate in local activities in the community, enjoying quiet evenings together, meeting for lunch once a week and taking evening strolls to the river (a tributary of the Congo River), which is a few yards from our house. Fortunately, the "wildlife" sightings so far have consisted of beautiful birds, a few frogs and many lizards. The slithery African snakes have not appeared in our yard yet, and I would not be disappointed if I did not see any of them ever. Mr. Lizard below is a welcome visitor, as he likes to eat mosquitoes and other insects.

Mr. Lizard comes to our back patio for a visit

We've discovered a few excellent South African red wines and even tasted the Angolan delicacy of "funge" ( if made with a corn meal mixture - it's called Pirão, if made with cassava/manioc/yucca flour - it's called funge). My "Gal in Soyo" award goes to the South African Cabernet Sauvignon wines we have enjoyed vs the funge. The funge is rather bland but can be spiced up with kundingo (a very spicy Angolan hot sauce). I'd rather save up my carb intake for the wonderful bread that many small mom & pop bakeries produce every day in their back yards. So much for the "South Beach" diet. Hopefully, my early morning walks will help offset my indulgence(s).

Hot bread fresh out of the oven!

I now look forward to the Wednesday afternoon sessions of playing Mahjong with the other expat ladies. The first couple of weeks, I observed the game intently. I thought that I'd never get all of the possible combinations for setting up a hand, let alone winning! It didn't matter, by the third week I agreed to play with the "newbie" rules of everyone playing open hands. I have enjoyed the experience in the last couple of weeks. I even won a game last Wednesday! Yeah! The game is actually quite fun and the opportunity to join a gathering with other expat spouses is one of the highlights of my week. Even the spouses that do not play Mahjong join the gathering, a couple of hours later, for coffee or tea and the great discussions that emerge. Typical conversations include passport visa challenges (my passport was sent to the capital of Luanda when I arrived in Soyo and so far there are no signs of a resident visa on the horizon), a spotting of a fresh vegetable or fruit at a particular market (soon to disappear, once the word gets out), or any maintenance issues encountered in the houses. This gathering time is more than a visit, it seems to be a much needed group therapy session. The laughing is prevalent and I know that the ladies that have been here the longest (now going on 3 or 4 years) have survived the experience by keeping their sense of humor alive. Just as I learned from them through the many emails prior to our arrival in Soyo, I must observe them now to gain the knowledge I will need for my "survival tools". I know that at this stage of our lives, dealing with setbacks and challenges along with the beautiful and unique experiences will mold us into "different people" and I am curious as to what that will mean for us.

Lunch with ladies at Kinwika

Billy is back. What a charmer!

Speaking of beautiful and unique experiences, in my last blog I described the birds that grace us with their presence and chirping each day. This morning, my husband's alarm went off as usual at 5:30AM. Both of us decided to ignore it. Very soon thereafter, a bird perched on our balcony and started singing. His song was so loud that he seemed to be perched on our night stand tweeting away. What a way to wake up! There is no alarm clock that can match this. This bird was belting away the best morning song I have every heard!
After my early morning walk today, I sat at my laptop to finish this blog posting and once again, I was distracted by yet another bird singing. I tried to capture some of it in a video...unfortunately, what I captured was not as loud nor as beautiful as I have heard, but it will give you an idea of the sounds that surround us....what a gift! Toward the end of the video clip, look out for a bird that was hiding in the Flamboyant tree. It flies away as I approach. I guess he's not photogenic or I was filming his bad side. :-)

 

One of my husband's friends is from Scotland and a huge Celtics team fan. He has formed a club to support one of the boys' soccer teams in Soyo (known as football here and in Scotland, of course) and has furnished them with uniforms, balls and a huge banner displaying their newly created logo. We were invited to watch their game last Sunday afternoon and we had a blast. When we arrived, 2 other teams were finishing their game. It only took a couple of seconds of watching before I noticed that some of the players were playing either barefooted or in socks. Also, the soccer "field" was pure dirt, not a spec of grass anywhere. Soon after "adjusting" my eyes to ignore what seemed "odd" to me, I sat in the makeshift bleachers and watched an exciting game. This game was no different than the countless soccer games I had attended throughout my son's school years. These boys were just as athletic, talented and fired up about playing the game. It was exciting to see the Soyo Bhoys Celtics team arrive with their striped green and "bright" white shirts and white shorts. Having said that, let me state that none of the boys on any team seem to be at all affected by what my "filters" have projected in this paragraph. They were there to play "fubol" and they played their hearts out...shoes or no shoes, white and green beautiful shirts, ragged dirty shirts or no shirts...they had so much fun and so did we! The Soyo Bhoys Celtics soccer team tied their game. The team is still undefeated. I took a video and a few pictures so that I could share the experience with you in this blog.

Soyo Bhoys logo and flag displayed at games

 
I'm a bit late in publishing this blog posting, so I'll close for now. Life is settling down into a routine, but we are still in awe of our surroundings. So far, we are still smiling. Maybe that is yet another valuable lesson we are learning from the Angolan nationals.